Recipe: Parisienne Gnocchi with Spinach, Onions and Poached Eggs

Parisienne Gnocchi with Spinach, Onions and Poached Eggs

Adapted from Michael Ruhlman's The Book of Schmaltz

Yields: 4 servings

Ingredients

Gnocchi

1 c chicken stock or water

1/2 c schmaltz or butter

1 t kosher salt

1 c all-purpose flour

4  eggs

1/4 c chopped fresh, soft herbs (such as parsley, chives, tarragon or chervil)

To Finish the Dish

2 Tbsp schmaltz or butter

1 Spanish onion, diced

1 1/2 lbs fresh spinach, stems removed

4 large eggs

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Instructions

To Make the Gnocchi

Combine the stock, schmaltz and salt in a medium saucepan over high heat. When the liquid reaches a simmer, lower the heat to medium and add the flour. Stir continuously until all the liquid has been absorbed and a uniform paste has formed. Continue to cook, stirring, for another minute or two. Set the pot to cool for 5 minutes, so that the eggs don't cook when you add them.

Crack an egg into the pan and quickly stir it to combine. It will be slick at first, but the paste will soon embrace the egg. Repeat with the remaining eggs. Stir in the herb.  This step takes some muscle power, but persevere, it is worth it! 

Bring a large pot of water to a boil.

Fill a large pastry bag, fitted with a coupler, with the pate a choux. Pipe the dough into the simmering water, cutting the gnocchi off at 1 1/2 inches. (Hold the pastry bag in one hand, and a knife in the other; it goes really quickly when you get the hang of it.)  When the gnocchi float to the surface, they are done.

Transfer the cooked gnocchi to a plate lined with paper towel. Set them aside; toss with a little oil or schmaltz to prevent them from sticking together. Precede with the rest of the dish immediately, or chill or freeze the gnocchi until you are ready to use them.

To Finish the Dish

In a large sauté pan, melt the schmaltz over medium hear, and sauté the onion until completely cooked through, but not brown.  Add the gnocchi to the pan, along with more schmaltz if needed to help them brown. They should turn an appealing golden brown, after 4 or 5 minutes. When they are finished browning, add the spinach and toss. The spinach will wilt quickly. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

Drop the eggs into simmering water (which has a splash of vinegar) and reduce the heat to low. The eggs are poached when the white has completely solidified and the yolk is still fluid. This does not take long, so do not step away.

Divide the gnocchi and spinach among 4 warm plates, and top each with a poached egg. Give the eggs one last pinch of salt and a grind of pepper before serving.

Recipe: Classic Chicken Soup with Matzo Balls

Classic Chicken Soup with Matzo Balls

Adapted from Michael Ruhlman's The Book of Schmaltz

Yield: 8-12 matzo balls

Ingredients 

For the Matzo Balls

1 c matzo meal (or 4 squares of matzo, well pulverized in a food processor

4 large eggs, beaten

1/4 c schmaltz, melted

1/4 c gribenes (optional)

1/4 c chicken stock or water

1 t baking powder

1 t kosher salt

freshly ground black pepper, to taste

For the Soup

2 quarts chicken stock

4 carrots, peeled and thinly sliced

A few sprigs of dill or parsley

Instructions

Combine all the ingredients in a bowl and stir until they are thoroughly mixed. Cover with plastic wrap and set aside at room temperature for 30 minutes, or refrigerate up to 24 hours.

With damp hands, form the matzo mixture into 8-12 golf-ball size orbs (they will double in size).

Bring a large pot of salted water to a brisk boil, and then reduce the heat. Add the matzo balls and let the water return to a simmer. Cover the pot, and simmer until the matzo balls are cooked through, 30-40 minutes.*

Ten minutes before the matzo balls are ready, bring the prepared chicken stock to a simmer. Add the carrots and cook until al dente.

To serve, ladle some soup, a few pieces of carrot and two matzo balls into each bowl. Sprinkle with dill or parsley and serve immediately.

*The matzo balls can be made up to this point the day before. When they are cool, individually wrap them in saran wrap and store in the refrigerator.  Reheat in simmering stock when ready to serve.

Recipe: Schmaltz {Rendered Chicken Fat, flavored with Onion}

Schmaltz {Rendered Chicken Fat, flavored with Onion}

Adapted from Micheal Ruhlman's The Book of Schmaltz

Yield: 1/2 c Schmaltz and 1/3 c Gribenes

Ingredients

Skin and fat from 8 chicken thighs or 1 lb miscellaneous reserved chicken skin and fat, chopped into small pieces*

1/4 c water

1 Spanish onion, cut into medium dice

Instructions

Cook the chopped chicken fat and skin in the water to begin rendering at a gentle temperature.

Once the water and moisture in the fat/skin have cooked off, the temperature of the fat will rise above 212 F and browning of the fat/skin will begin. 

When the skin is lightly brown and plenty of fat has been rendered, add the chopped onion.

Be careful not to overcook the fat. It should remain clear and yellow, not brown with an overly roasted taste.

The browned skin and onion, called gribenes, are a delicious by-product of making smaltz.

Strain the fat and reserve the gribenes. The schmaltz is ready to use or it can be refrigerated up to a week. Alternatively, it can be frozen. The gribenes should also be refrigerated or frozen.

*Chopping chicken fat is a slippery business. Freezing the skin/fat before chopping makes for a much easier time.